Tessa with ArmaniJuly 25, 2025 Back in the 70's when Armani was king ("Mani, mani, mani," was the moto du jour), Armani was really king. He took the most delicate fabrics and has the most delicate tailoring on
these jackets that were whisper thin and the clothes were to die for. I bought a lot of Armani fabrics, cause at the time I had access to a lot of beautiful things from New York - designer end cuts, and through that source a lot of fabrics from Europe, Asia and the West Coat. This was from Rimmon Fabrics - still amazingly enough in operation today.
Not only were Armani garments a treat to wear, they were a treat for any sewist to handle. The dang things had structure without any stiffness whatsoever. They were divine to put on your body. So putzing around in my stash, I found this fabric, looking for something to do the Tessa Pant out of.
So what's the big deal about this pant. It's the cut, which is what Armani was all about. When the cut was right, the garment sang (in four-part harmony at the same time!!!!) It was like wearing angle clothes. And I'm to the point in my life, that waiting for just the right time or right pattern, ain't gerna happen any sooner than today - so time to cut into this gorgeous piece of
fabric. To be honest, I'm not sure which I like better, the fabric or the pattern, and that doesn't often happen, cause I don't have access to this type of fabric more often than not. I'm sewing mostly with what I can get.
Here's the deal, if I feel this fabric and it was $30, $50,
$100/yard, I would be all over it, but seeing it only online I simply don't spend that much on it, unless it's on sale, and then I can really get some fabulous fabric. But mostly I sew with just run-of-the-mill fabric. And that's not to say I wouldn't buy this sort of fabric. I really cooked over this fabric for almost 2 years.....
Before it ended up like this...
So I've been known to think a while about the fabric before I plunge in, but 50 years is probably the longest I've heald on to fabric, and why not.
So here's a blouse (my entredeux blouse) that goes well with a lot of pants I have. I need to make this in some other fabrics, cause it gives me a great line. the longer tail with a shirttail shaped hem is excellent on my figure. So I thought I
would try the pants with this top.
Not bad. I did skootch in the legs just a tiny bit, but mostly kep the line of the pattern.
The real true way to see the cut of something is to look at the pattern pieces, and I got a chance to do that before I cut this out. This is basically a thinned-up stove-pipe shaped leg, and it was so thinned up, that I thought it might work.
BTW I made this in knit first, to see just how much it thinned up, and I had to take 4" out of it for it to hang right. But then that's knit for you cause I didn't take anything out of the hip which has a nice 2" ease without looking baggy. That's the real genius of this pant. See what I mean about hanging right and not being baggy?
My back side is probably the least attractive side of me, but this dang pant works here. Frankly, I was shocked, and like I said before I'm not sure it's the pattern or the fabric, but dang that drape is magnificent. Not only is the standing hang wonderful, but the way the pant walks is dreamy beyond belief.
Here you can see how beautiful the drape is and how beautifully it walks. It feels like a dream and walks like a dream. I'll do this pant again and in a nice draping fabric, it will look fabulous. The lace entredeux shirt is a classic too, but amazingly enough still available. This is a nice simple shirt with a rolled collar and no collar band. Part of the reason I
chose it for the entredeux shirt was that I didn't want my entredeux to have to go through too many seams (collar, collarband, and all that)
And here are the pattern pieces
You can see here that the collar goes on sort of like a shawl collar only has a point at the end instead of rounded like a shawl collar. This is a hugely simple collar, but it's also got dreamy shape and roll to it. It's obviously a blouse and can't
even be close to a shirt look, but we ladies need pure blouses every once in a while.
Once again, I'm also touting the fabulous cut of the StyleArc patterns. It's been rare that I'm disappointed and it's usually with something that I KNOW doesn't work on my figure - like a short boxy top or a full leg, but then again, I'm surprised, like I
was with this pant. What really made me try it was when I saw the pieces and knew that it wasn't a straight stove-pipe pant, but a tapered one. And of course the hang made it.
If you're an Apple or a Rectangle, this Tessa Pant is a must. For we Pears and Hourglasses, we have to be careful of the tops we wear with this, otherwise it can get too focused on our hips. The only real alteration I had to make was the rise height (or the crotch height). But again
that's normal for me since I have very short legs and a raised waistline.
Gosh - too bad I have to sleep otherwise I would have this New Look pattern made up - I have at least 2 contenders for this top!!!!
The SewingArtistry Resource Library is designed to contain information to not only make your sewing better, but to aid in you fitting and flattering your shape, size and style. Check it out.
Look for future classes coming in 2024 The Core Pattern Shirt, (one of my favorites for woven core pattern that you can make into a myriad of different
garments), Basic Knit Top (core pattern class for knit basic tops, shells, tees, dresses, and tunics)
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